*Lew, all the above is good advice, but one drawback to I joists is their short burn time if there is a fire, talk to some local firefighters and get their opinion, this is what I have heard "over the fence". Deflection Limit: 0.003 x engineering span or 12mm whichever is lesser. For longer spans, engineereed joists are most likely the way to go. Hope this helps. for 11-7/8". As far as bounciness (deflection) is concerned, that too is a matter of design. The I joists are delivered in 30 ft lengths--enough togo from wall to wall. That was definitely a concern of mine when choosing my floor, but cost was still the big factor. Just as most builders would not try and use the minimum size allowed 2x joist to acheive a stiff floor, you should not push the limits of engineered joists. *Lew:Just went throught the same dilemma with the two story I'm building. Or should I use 2×8 joists? It isn't talked about much, but fire performance IS a concern with I-joists. Some situations require time-consuming blocking, mostly in multi-story applications. The cost for the 11-7/8" were $2.10 pf. Any of the 3 can give you a good floor, if you follow written guidelines. The few floors I “test drove” with TJI’s seemed bouncy to me. That makes it neccessary to rip them all to one uniform size unless you want a wavy floor above.I hate, I repeat HATE those TJI joist. In situations calling for a greater amount of pounds per square foot capability, the span length will decrease. A Douglas Fir typically has the ability to span a larger distance than a Spruce Pine or Southern Pine. One "big" one is length, I just ordered a load of 11-7/8" SP 55 40ft's and 9-1/4" SP 55 36ft's. We like to go with a 5/8 ” tongue and groove plywood as an initial sub-floor, running perpendicular to the joists, and then a second sub-floor of plugged and sanded, 1/2″ tongue and groove plywood running in the opposite direction. Having the luxury of being able to compare, the first 8 or 9 years in the trade, to the last 6 years I'd say the I'm now a fan of engineered wood products. I want a sound floor but at the same time don’t want to over do it. Your email address will not be published. It may be legal but not too comfortable to walk on. They also typically require a few days of lead time to get in. 2 X 8 joists spanning only 8 feet is more than enough. It also seems to me that Truss joist Corp. seems king of arrogant. If your spans are close to the limit, eitherchoose taller joists or close up the spacing. (Ductwork requires quite a bit of pre-planning, though) Trusses require the longest lead time to order - often 2 to 4 weeks. Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation. However it is important to understand, that all substantial spans, should be properly engineered, especially with the more contemporary structures with open spaces and longer spans. The best advantage is the amount of space in the webs. Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *. If you are truly looking to stabilize the floor, an additional layer of sub-floor will offer the most stability and strength. Beam and Joist Span Tables Built-Up Wood Floor Beams Supporting One Floor in a House Maximum Spans for Uniformly Distributed Loads Species and Grade Supported Built Up Beam Size Joist Length 3-2X8 4-2X8 3-2X10 4-2X10 3-2X12 4-2X12 8 9-8 11-2 11-10 13-8 13-8 15-10 10 8-8 10-0 10-7 12-2 12-3 14-2 Their primary disadvantages are that they take more labor than any other framing system, and they aren't very straight.I-joists are virtually always more expensive as far as material costs, but take a bit less labor. Same type of math says that a 3x10 would be a reasonable substitute for a 2x12. The few floors I "test drove" with TJI's seemed bouncy to me. (At least as far as I know). This assembly will provide a stable floor that will not flex, squeak or move. Is the Coronavirus Crisis Increasing America's Drug Overdoses? Williams, *I have capped many a foundation for Habitat for Humanity. I got quality lumber from my local yard,( not H.D.) and the 9-1/4" were $1.66 pf. If the span is 6 feet or less, use 2X6’s, if the span is 8 feet or less, use 2X8’s, less than 10 feet, 2X10’s, etc. The "spring" or "feel" of a floor isn't considered when making up span charts. If a joist's "Max. and had very few culls. (owner-builder) With my spans I could have used 7 1/2″ TJI’s, but no room for plumbing. I would recommend the I joists.Eric. As was mentioned before, you don't have to worry about drilling through them for pluming, the HVAC guys can run their ducts right through the webbing, and the electricians can easily run their wire. *Terry, I agree with you for the most part. *I think you've hit it on the design thing. Floor trusses have an advantage over I-joists in the way that they are connected where the rim joist would be. There is a commonly used ,old fashion method, of ensuring that the proper size joists or headers are used. But don't push span limits - you'll get a bouncy floor. hope this helps, Geoff. The high cost just threw me. *Ron,I agree. You didn't mention wood web floor trusses, but what the heck - I'm on a roll.Floor trusses are generally the most expensive to buy, but take the least labor. They are much stronger. The listingis the maximum allowable spans. It's 1.6666 times the depth of a 2x6 and hence is (1.66666)^2 = 2.7777 times as strong in bending strength. Depending on the manufacturer, bridging may be required in certain applications. You are definitely right in saying that it isn't a good idea to push the limits on span tables. A first floor joist also typically requires a higher psf rating than a second story or attic. simple span joists and rafters with uniform load. Part is a 15' span which is on 12" centers, 3/4" t&g plywood, constuction adhesive, I don't think I'll get any bounce. and they do make a bouncy floor. Additionally, the load that the floor needs to support is also a consideration. If you have to use a non-dimentional lumber floor system, I vote for floor trusses. Your local supplier and the maufacturer are good sources of information. There is a commonly used ,old fashion method, of ensuring that the proper size joists or headers are used. In new home construction, what is the best way to go for the joists, including the issues of initial cost, installiation time and quality of finished floor? However, trying to find lumber long enough and straight enough is getting harder to do. I have no bounce in any floors built with EFJ's, and I never will. ), The Secret Science of Solving Crossword Puzzles, Racist Phrases to Remove From Your Mental Lexicon. They are also the most readily available, as they are obviously stocked at lumber yards. I chose 2x10 doug fir and have no complaints. In all the houses that we build now, we are using floor trusses. 3/4 T&G OSB over 2x10's on 16" ctrs seems plenty stiff, but my longest span is 16 feet. *Dear Lew,You might not even be reading this strain any more, but I thought that I'd throw in my two cents. Before jumping into the span tables, let's first consider wood species and wood grades. They are strong, they don't bounce if engineered right, and the electricians and plumbers love to run wires and pipes through them.That's what I think,Ed. The manufacture is TJI (Trus Joist) these are a series 55. TJM is a pain-in-the-ass to deal with directly. Centres" is the maximum centres that this joist can be used for in this application. Once you start to work with them, you will really like them. Commercially we also use a product known as gyp-crete which is a gypsum product that is actually poured over the sub-floor to soundproof, fireproof and provide additional density to the floor assembly. They are generally easier to get plumbing and wiring in than conventional lumber. Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine. The maximum span for a 2 X 10 floor joist is up to 21 feet, depending on several factors. They really are superior for most applications. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber."

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